First of all, I have to say, you've been doing a good job with the matter. To the individual points I would like to give back information.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:1.Got a refractometer (D-D True Seawater Refractometer) calibrated each second measurement with Salifert Refracto Check Calibration Solution(35). The measurements are made at 21C room temp. The other tests are done with Tropic Marin testing products.
Once the refractometer has been correctly calibrated, it works very well. It is not necessary to recalibrate the refractometer in such short intervals.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:2.As specified in introduction post using a Hybrid Giesemann Stellar(not dimmable version) 60 cm(using ATI tubes -2 coral plus 1 Aqua Blue Special and 1 Purple plus) + GHL Mitras LX 7204 set to 60% max (it ramps up and decreases based on time of day). Lighting is 12h with led starting first at about 11:00 AM and in 45 min 2 T5 get energy and then in 2h the rest of the tubs).Lighting stops at 11:00 PM in the reverse order of start.
As mentioned before, please post the configuration of the LED settings here. If possible, please also post a picture of the lighting curve here. You can set the red LED to o%; there is already enough red in the ATI PP tube. Red light represses the photophysiology of stony corals.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:No mechanical filtration used. I removed the sock and replaced it with a media cup (plastic cup with holes) full of Seachem Matrix. I plan to vacuum the sump from time to time and set some Wolle before the return chamber when I am working in the sump to catch all the stirred particles.
Matrix media to become clogged up with detritus and slime, so I recommend regular filter maintenance to ensure it continues working as efficiently as possible. You don't need the filter medium, because the bacteria are all sufficiently present in your aquarium and when you use corals these bacteria compete with the corals for nutrients uptake.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:4.Currently carbon is not used as the water is pretty clean based on the tests. Plan to use the carbon as needed and mandatory when I set up the ozone .But that is a long discussion in itself.
I don't reccomend the permanently usage of ozon. I poste
here in the forum some more information about Ozon. If you use ozone in an aquarium please install activated carbon downstream. Activated carbon filtration removes the dominant oxidants of an ozonized seawater system (free bromine, bromamine). The removability of chloramines, which can occur during the ozonisation of bromide-free artificial seawater, is low in comparison.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:6.Based on what I read some of the best salts are Tropic Marin Pro. In my nano I used Tropic Marin Syn-Biotic (based on my understanding it is same with Tropic Marin Pro + Tropic Marin Reef Actif addition and bacteria). At the start of the system also Syn-Biotic was used and will use it 1-2 months until by bucket gets consumed. Then will switch to Tropic Marin Pro of which I already have a 25kg bucket.
Yes Tropic Marin Pro Reef is one the best sea salt you can use. Do not use salts with probiotic ingredients.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:7.As the system is 3 weeks old have not changed saltwater once. Plan to do a big change this weekend of about 50%(see snail problems).My normal salt exchange routine will be every 2 weeks 35% changed or every months 50% changed, not decided. The aquarium is small so I can still do big changes , also not a fan of small amount change as dilution and replacement of micro elements is almost insignificant
It is not necessary to change the water as often as necessary. see also topic 8.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:8. "How do you stabilize the lime balance in the Aquarium?" Not sure I understand your question. I don't have major consumers of alkalinity yet(as far as I understand) so not really worried at this time. If your question refers to PH here I do seem to have a problem as the PH seems low. Not sure what is the causes but I think too much CO2 in the room and allot of biologic processes with the start of the reef play a part in this. I did dose some PH buffer(Tropic Marin Triple Buffer) to avoid getting a very low PH and potentially loosing my fish .
By this I mean the supply of the aquarium with calcium and carbonates. As i said you have to begin to bring in corals into your aqaurium. to establish the supply you have several methods like Balling (two parts method). For your aquarium size i would prefer the sangokai balance system. With sangokai lime balance stabilisation you have perfect control over the calcium and carbonate content in your reef aquarium. Additional to this the chem-balance products also automate the addition of strontium, magnesium and all other major components to seawater. The biggest advantage of the balance system is, once correctly adjusted you don't have to change the water any more.
MasterBlaster hat geschrieben:9.Because no corals and system still ramping up biologically I did not add any additives apart from once a week Tropic Marin bacteria solution and the PH/KH buffer I already mentioned. From what I read I know some important micro elements deplete very fast so I have them at hand (Iodine /Iron and Potassium) but have not dosed them yet. No tests yet for those. On the long run I plan to use a calcium reactor and only dose micro elements but I imagined that's about 4-6 months in the future. I imagine water changes solve my current needs.
As i said start with bringing in corals in your aquarium. At the same time I recommend to dose both nutrients and trace elements. Do to this use the sango nutri-basic System. Is it possible for you to buy sangokai products in romania?
If I were you, I'd buy an protein skimmer first. Not primarily for water treatment but to achieve an effective gas exchange.
. I kept my pico at 28C and I keep my tank at 27C as a way to ensure summer heat does not shock the aquarium ( in my apartment it can get pretty hot even with AC sometimes on and I want to avoid a chiller)
, working on it )
